In the Corners of a Circle by Kim Gemmik - FASHIONCLASH 2025

“In the corners of a Circle”, an artwork created by Fashion Design graduate, Kim Gemmik, was exhibited at Bureau Europa for this year’s FASHIONCLASH Festival in Maastricht. The viewers could discover the artwork in its basement. 

When walking down the stairs, I was immediately introduced to the interactive and playful part where the viewer was invited to become a model themselves. As another group of artists and friends were having fun with the activity, I chuckled, inspired to take part in it myself later on.

I started watching a film showing four models that wore Gemmik’s artwork. The outfits consisted of big, white clownish shoes. The coloured shapes and sharp hats were striped blue, red, green, orange with white and black accents. Gemmik was giving final touches to the looks of the models, adjusting here and there. When the models’ looks were finished, the film was cut with a small pause following after.

Continued by action: the models started to move and dance - putting the fashion in the limelight. As a viewer, I had the impression that it was well-rehearsed choreography. The artist, Gemmik, let me in on the fact that she was responsible for the styling while the movements were deliberately chosen by the models.

Next to the screen, on two small tables, brochures titled “A Fashion To Play” introduced background information. The design was based on a system of geometry and math invented by Gemmik. Additionally, the viewers were let in on instructions how to attach the different pieces with each other and the intent of wearing the circle shaped fashion.

As I continued throughout the exhibition, I closely examined the designed fashion worn by the mannequins. The brochure I flipped through a moment before allowed me to understand how Gemmik moved from geometry to fashion. I was impressed by the ability of the artist’s spatial thinking in theory. For me it was one thing to see the sketches and process of designing this system on paper, but another to see it embodied so beautifully.  

Having seen the process of the artmaking, I was looking forward to now touching, feeling and wearing the clothing myself. This last part was a creation of new art itself. The idea was for the viewer to transform into the model. 

The instructions, written on a white wall were: 

1. Please take off your shoes 

2. Take shape(s) off the floor 

3. Attach, connect, interact 

4. Wear it, play 

5. Be a part 

Gemmik explained how different the reactions of people have been. Some were asking “How do I wear them the right way?”, while  some just went right to it. 

With this interactive part she aimed to let people break the system she has created and let go of the expectation that there’s right and wrong to it. As we’re continuously adapting to the norm of society and encounter limits, simplifying by thinking in boxes, this artwork sought to challenge this conception. It promoted finding possibilities and fun within these limitations.

Once the newly born models were dressed and in position, she took a picture with a polaroid camera. Gemmik then added the new creation onto the white wall, already surrounded by many polaroids. Gemmik curiously observed and discovered the different ways of interpretation, gaining new perspectives. For me, it was amusing and fascinating to see the outcomes of others.

Idea of the project 

Gemmik explained that there were different factors involved in how she arrived at this idea. To be surrounded by artists is, for once, a whole different area of being. Second, you have to ask yourself “What do I want to say?” Gemmik considers fashion as an opportunity for authenticity. With the development of Fast Fashion, it’s become less about that.

Additionally, Gemmik wanted to challenge the concept of most designers: In designer fashion the art piece is typically designed for only one body type or size. Models are expected to do what it takes to fit. Gemmik wanted her fashion to be inclusive rather than exclusive. One-size-fits-all was the motto. Her designed shapes were very large while they could be tightened. It was the model’s choice, in the interactive part, of which and how many shapes to combine. 

I really enjoyed being introduced to Kim Gemmik’s alternative thinking about fashion. The implementation of her criticism through art fascinated me.  I was glad to be reporting for the Maastricht Diplomat as I gained insights behind the scenes and understood the art better. I felt that the intention and thought process allowed me to understand the artwork in much more detail. 

More from Kim Gemmik: @kimgemm